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Ski Mountaineering Expedition to Mt Cook, St Elias Range, Alaska

Words By Tobey Carmen Photographs by Andrew McGarry

 Peter Linn and pilot Paul Swanstrom load gear onto a Cessina 185, Yakutat, Alaska.Krieger flying into the St Elias mountains.Paul Swamstrom's cessnia 185 flying into the St Elias Mountains, AlaskaPaul Swamstrom's cessnia 185 flying into the St Elias Mountains, AlaskaPaul Swamstrom's cessnia 185 flying into the St Elias Mountains, AlaskaCamping in by Mt Cook, Mt Vancouver in the Backdrop. St Elias Mountains, AlaskaCamping in by Mt Cook, Mt Cook in the Backdrop. St Elias Mountains, AlaskaPeter Linn skiing up to the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, Alaska




On May 5 2005, Paul Swanstrom of Haines (Alaska Mt Flying and Travel) flew our group of five from Yakutat to a landing zone on the upper Seward Glacier. We were dropped at about 7000 feet, near the Canadian border under the southeast arm of Mt Vancouver, with the aim of skiing Mt Cook. Although the pilot reported that the previous week had been unseasonably warm and huge runnels prevented us from landing closer to Mt Cook, a short tour on the first day unveiled soft conditions on the northern aspects. Better yet the view from camp showed a near perfect and likely continuous run down Mt Cook!

Incredulous that we were indeed in the St Elias Range, and that indeed we were not yet “digging for our lives,” we decided to pack up and launch on the second day. We threw our stuff together planning on several nights at the base of the route, and maybe a couple nights on the mountain.

“Tobey, you threw that gallon of gas on your sled right?” “I though you had it?” “Shit. I sure hope the weather holds!” So we started up the next morning with barely enough fuel for two nights on the mountain, and one back at the base… if we ate mostly dry food and didn’t boil our water. No storming allowed!

So we started up the next morning with barely enough fuel for two nights on the mountain, and one back at the base… if we ate mostly dry food and didn’t boil our water. No storming allowed! After dashing under a couple seracs we ducked into the scant shelter of our chosen rib and started booting up the route. Soft boot-top snow led over ever steepening undulations to underneath a severely overhung serac. We detoured climbers left and over two short ice bulges. One long ascending traverse brought us to the pass at the head of the North Fork of the Turner Glacier.  

Peter Linn and Kajsa Krieger climbs up to the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaKajsa Krieger climbs up to the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaKajsa Krieger and crew camping on the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaKajsa Krieger and crew camping on the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaTobey Carmen gearing up for the day on the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaKajsa Krieger climbing up the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaScott Morley climbing up the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaScott Morley climbing up the north face of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaPeter Linn, Tobey Carmen, Kajsa Krieger, And Scott Morley on the top of Mt Cook. St Elias range, Alaska

 

 

 

 The following day we skinned and booted, weaving around gaping cracks, and traversed all the way around the north side of the mountain to finally gain access to the summit pyramid via the northwest aspect. After slamming a couple golf balls off the summit we clicked in and schussed back to camp.

Tobey Carmen hitting a few golf balls off the top of Mt Cook. St Elias range, AlaskaPeter Linn Skiing through a cravess section off the summit of Mt Cook. St Elias Mountains, Alaska.Kajsa Krieger skiing off the summit of Mt Cook. St Elias Mountains, Alaska.Peter Linn skiing towards base camp. North face of Mt Cook in the backdrop. . St Elias Mountains, Alaska.Mt Vancouver from the air. St Elias mountains, Alaska.East face of Mount King George, St Elias Range, Canada.Tobey Carmen drinking at the Mt Cook base camp. St Elias Mountains, Alaska.Kajsa and Tobey Carmen at the Mt Cook base camp. St Elias Mountains, Alaska.


 

 

 With our egos inflated from the ease of skiing on the top half of the mountain, we underestimated the severity of the lower half. Carrying our bivy, the initial slope from the pass proved to be absolutely puckering and about twice as steep we remembered. Perfect, wind buffed soft snow saved us from certain death as we sketched across the traverse. Two 20 foot rappels got us around the ice bulges and another 2000 feet of puckeringly steep skiing got us around the ‘shrund and back to our lower camp.

Peter and Scott playing hacky sac. South face of mt Vancouver in the backdrop.. St Elias Mountains, Alaska.Playing cards in the snow cave. Mt Cook base camp. St Elias Mountains, Alaska.Peter linn gearing up for a midnight ski tour. St Elias range, Yukon Territory, CanadaPeter linn gearing up for a midnight ski tour. St Elias range, Yukon Territory, CanadaPeter linn gearing up for a midnight ski tour. St Elias range, Yukon Territory, CanadaView of Yakutat Bay.Skier Kajsa Krieger.Flying back to Yakutat after skiing Mt Cook in the St Elias Mountains, Alaska.

 



Having completed our goal so early in the trip, the remainder was somewhat listless, but we managed a several day tour under the immense south aspect of Vancouver. During this time the path of the sun changed enough that only a very narrow aspect range without diurnal crusts remained good for powder skiing. We also had about 6 days of poor visibility and light snowfall during which we explored the terrain park potential of the massive wind-carved moats surrounding the rock formations around basecamp. Our route of appears to be the descent route of the second ascent party, (AAJ)

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Kajsa Krieger, mid pre-game, 80's night in Juneau, Alaska.
©2012 Mcgarryphoto